October 18 , 2002

California Classics by Tim Fish

Columnist Matt Kramer championed wineries that have had staying power for decades.

New is not always best. That was the gospel according to Matt Kramer at his "California Classics" seminar on Friday. The Wine Spectator columnist used the podium to champion three long-established wineries -- Stony Hill Vineyard, Mount Eden Vineyards and Mayacamas Vineyards -- that are still making great wine.

"The people who own these properties are really guardians," Kramer told the group. "There have been people in California who have had a commitment to a singular vineyard, to a singular site, and have made wine in a singular fashion, and they have done it for decade after decade. We forget that California has these places. I admit there are not many, but they're there, and in fact they're here right now."

With two winery owners in the audience, Elinor Travers of Mayacamas and Ellie Patterson of Mount Eden, Kramer offered a wine from each producer, calling the wines "originals." Laughing, Kramer said, "It's sort of ironic to say that in Las Vegas. Because after all, most things aren't original, most wines aren't original, and when we find wines like that, we treasure those, and I treasure these."

Kramer recalled the days when Stony Hill's Chardonnay was one of the most sought-after wines in California. "You couldn't get Stony Hill. It was like trying to order a unicorn. Forget it. I don't know who got on the list, but it made Screaming Eagle's mailing list look positively democratic," Kramer told the group.

The winery, located in northern Napa Valley, was founded in 1943 by Fred and Eleanor McCrea, who decided to focus on Chardonnay. "Nobody knew anything about Chardonnay back then. Here was a guy who planted a varietal that was essentially unknown," Kramer said. "Peter McCrea, the son, has now taken it over. The winery is so small, I swear to you, that the suite that I have here at the Venetian is bigger than their winery."

Tasting the Stony Hill Napa Valley 1999 (90 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, $27), Kramer said, "Sometimes you wonder what Chardonnay tastes like. This is what Chardonnay tastes like." The winery, Kramer explained, has never used malolactic fermentation, preferring pure, crisp fruit over the full-bodied and buttery style of Chardonnay popular today.

"This is classic California Chardonnay. There is no reason to change this style. It has a wonderful mouthfeel. It's unctuous. It has density," Kramer said. "The wines live longer because the acidity is higher, and it takes longer for them to evolve as well. These wines do nothing but get better and better."