The Weekly Wine Commentary, November 4, 2004

A House Palate
I got a graphic reminder of house style when I tasted the wines of one of California's true precious stones, the Stony Hill Winery of the upper Napa Valley.

I simply cannot imagine a Stony Hill Chardonnay with gobs of oak or a soft, squishy underbelly. These wines since the 1950s have been dry, almost angular, and perfect Chablis counterparts, great with delicate seafood and especially elegant after long aging.

Likewise, the other wines in the portfolio of this amazing property never cease to amaze me for their stylish restraint, their impeccable acid balance, and their evocation of a place you simply wouldn't believe could grow such sublime flavors.

Tasting Notes - Exceptional
2001 Stony Hill Chardonnay, Napa Valley: $27
Racy citrus/grapefruit and dried pear fruit; very light use of used barrels leaves this bright, fresh, delicate wine with a perfect structure to age for 5 to 10 years or more. A classic style of Chardonnay from Napa's earliest days, one aimed at traditionalists.

2001 Stony Hill White Reisling, Napa Valley: $15
Another traditionalist style of wine, with light apple and petroleum notes, a hint of white pepper, and a dry finish. But not austere since a tiny trace of sugar balances great acidity. Will develop with 2-4 more years in the bottle.

2001 Stony Hill Gewurztraminer, Napa Valley: $15
More of an Alsace style of wine, with light spiced apple notes and delicate earth tones. The wine is already three years old and still developing complexity. Not a traditional style of Gewurz, but subtle, restrained; aimed at food like cracked crab.