Touring the Napa Valley, March 2005

A visit to Stony Hill had been suggested to me by Marti LaPlante, someone I'd met at the Green Valley Symposium. Although I recognized the Stony Hill name, I really didn't know much about them, and decided to check out their website. I was surprised to find they only made white wines. White wines only, I kept repeating to myself while furrowing my brow. Well, now there's something you don't see every day - someone who only makes white wine? With a Napa Valley address, how could it be that a winery was not making a Cabernet, I wondered. I was intrigued.

We drove across the valley through St. Helena and up Spring Mountain Road into the Mayacamas. Left turn, through a gate, and we arrived at Stony Hill, pulling into the McCrea's driveway and up the hill to the house. The drive up Spring Mountain Road was beautiful, and the scenery looked fabulous from this vantage point. Peter McCrea came out to meet us, introducing us to his wife Willinda and their winemaker Mike Chelini. We stood there for a bit, chatting and admiring the grounds. The rain had stopped falling, and the sky was alternately filled with grey clouds and blue skies, giving different effects to the vineyards and surrounding countryside.

Peter's parents, Fred and Eleanor McCrea originally bought a 160-acre ranch on Spring Mountain in 1943. Vineyard planting began in 1947, using mainly Chardonnay vines, with lesser amounts of White Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and a small amount of Semillon. The average elevation of 600 feet make it an ideal location for growing Chardonnay grapes, up and away from the heat of the valley floor. The winery was built in 1952, which amazingly made it the first new winery built in the Napa Valley after Prohibition. The first vintage of Chardonnay was also produced that same year.

Peter suggested we walk down to the winery and try some wines. Leading us out onto to the back patio, it was like looking at yet another Sunset Magazine pictorial shot. From here, we could see a pool and grounds, as well as an older winery building, just off to the right. Shall we taste some wine, Peter suggested. After admiring the lovely carved doors, Mike led us inside the winery. Aside from the doors, the building didn't look 50+ years old from the outside. But once inside, the the facility took on more of an aged look. At first glance, I assumed that the many large older barrels I saw were there merely for show and tell. But, I was quite surprised to hear that the older cooperage is in fact still used each year. Given the absence of new oak and the lack of malolactic fermentation, I figured these wines would show fruit, fruit, and more fruit. And, after Mike pulled several barrel samples for us, and it was indeed obvious - these wines were loaded with pure Chardonnay fruit! So, Mike, where's the red wine, I asked kiddingly. Oh, we do have some Syrah in barrel. Syrah, I said in astonishment, where'd you get that? Oh, we have a 1/2 acre, he said nonchalantly. Very nice stuff - and I notice they keep this to themselves.

With old vine Chardonnay and over 50 years of tradition, longevity seems to be the watchword here at Stony Hill. Apparently, the vineyard crew's family has been here for twenty or more years. And, in these days of roving top-gun winemakers, Mike Chelini seems to be setting a record of his own. He arrived at Stony Hill in 1971, and since 1977, has been the winemaker at Stony Hill - the only winemaker!

After some barrel sampling, Peter suggested we take a look at the vineyards. We strolled up the road by several old vine plantings, and finally made our way back to the house. Shall we get some lunch, he asked, as we walked back toward the house. Willinda invited us to help ourselves to a lovely buffet lunch she'd prepared. Peter and Mike put out several bottles of wine at lunch, and we were able to try the entire Stony Hill lineup - with lunch. We had an incredible time, talking about wine, food, and life.

Needless to say, we were really enjoying our visit. Unfortunately, our schedule was now falling woefully behind. I glanced at my watch, and excused myself for a moment to call ahead to our next stop, to let them know what was undoubtedly obvious - we were running late. Saying goodbye to Peter and Willinda, we thanked them both for their generous hospitality. We also thanked Mike for leading us through some very nice wines, and headed off for Calistoga at flank speed.

Selected Tasting Notes

...from bottle...

2003 Stony Hill Gewurztraminer - Estate. Nose of dried spiced lemon and orange peel. Dry and lightly spicy on the palate, with nearly perfect balance.

2003 Stony Hill Riesling - Estate. Crisp and fruity, with a hint of floral and light spices. Lightly crisp on the palate; very Kabinett-like.

2002 Stony Hill Chardonnay 50th Anniversary - Estate. Loads of apple-like fruit, very smooth across the palate, with a lightly crisp finish.

2001 Stony Hill Chardonnay - Estate. Somewhat toastier than the younger 50th anniversary, the time in bottle has certainly added something here, and the result is a gorgeous silky mouthfeel.

2000 Stony Hill Semillon de Soleil - Napa Valley. Fresh and flowery, with a nice hint of caramel in the nose. Sauternes-like in mouthfeel, nice viscosity, smooth long finish. Made by drying the fruit in the sun for up to seven days before crushing.